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Custom Patch Glossary: 40 Terms Explained

This glossary defines the 40 terms most often used when ordering custom patches, including patch types such as embroidered, woven, chenille and PVC; materials such as twill and felt; borders such as merrowed, heat-cut and laser-cut; backings such as iron-on and Velcro; and ordering terms such as digitising, coverage, MOQ, mockup and Pantone matching.

Reference 6 min read

Close-up of patch materials including twill fabric, thread spools, a merrowed patch edge and a PVC patch

Key takeaways

  • Coverage is the percentage of the patch surface that is stitched.
  • A merrowed border is a rounded overlocked edge; heat-cut follows complex shapes.
  • Digitising turns your artwork into the stitch file the machine follows.
  • MOQ means minimum order quantity; ours is 5 per design.
  • A PMS or Pantone number is the most reliable way to specify a colour.

Patch types

### Embroidered patch A design stitched with polyester thread onto a twill base, giving a raised, textured finish. The most common patch type. See embroidered patches.

Woven patch

A flat patch made on a loom by interlacing very fine threads, holding small text down to about 3 mm. See woven patches.

Chenille patch

A patch of looped, fluffy yarn stitched onto felt, used for varsity letters and large crests. See chenille patches.

PVC patch

A patch moulded from flexible polyvinyl chloride rubber, waterproof and raised in layers. See PVC patches.

Printed patch

A patch with the design printed onto polyester twill by dye sublimation, used for photos and gradients. See printed patches.

Leather patch

A patch cut from genuine or faux leather, branded by debossing, laser engraving or printing. See leather patches.

3D puff embroidery

Embroidery stitched over a foam layer so parts of the design stand up from the surface. See 3D embroidered patches.

Rocker

A curved, banner-shaped patch placed above or below a centre patch, traditional on biker vests. See biker patches.

Name tab or name tape

A small rectangular patch carrying a person's name, used on uniforms and workwear.

Morale patch

A patch with a humorous or team design, usually on Velcro, popular on tactical-style gear.

Materials

### Twill The tightly woven base fabric of embroidered and printed patches. It can be dyed to any colour and left visible when coverage is below 100%.

Felt

The soft non-woven base fabric used under chenille.

Polyester thread

The standard thread for embroidered patches; strong, colourfast and resistant to shrinking.

Metallic thread

Thread with a metallic finish for gold or silver details; less smooth than standard thread and best used for highlights.

Glow-in-the-dark thread

Thread that glows after exposure to light, used for accents.

Reflective material

Material that reflects light from headlights or torches, used for safety and outdoor patches.

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Borders and edges

### Merrowed border A thick, rounded, overlocked edge stitched around simple shapes such as circles, squares and shields. Classic badge look. More in patch borders explained.

Heat-cut border

An edge cut and sealed with heat, allowing complex shapes that a merrow machine cannot follow.

Laser-cut border

An edge cut by laser for very precise shapes, sealed so it does not fray.

Satin stitch border

An embroidered edge stitched as part of the design, often used with heat-cut patches.

Backings

### Sew-on No backing; the patch is stitched on by hand or machine. Most durable.

Iron-on

A heat-activated adhesive on the back that bonds to cotton and denim with an iron. See how to iron on a patch.

Velcro (hook and loop)

A two-part fastener: hooks on the patch and loops on the garment, so patches can be removed. See Velcro patches explained.

Adhesive (peel-and-stick)

A sticky backing for temporary use on bags and equipment.

Safety pin

A pin attached to the back so the patch can be worn without sewing.

Plastic backing

A thin stiffener that keeps the patch flat and rigid.

All backings are compared in every patch backing explained.

Design and production

### Digitising Converting your artwork into a stitch file that tells the embroidery machine where and how to place every stitch. See preparing artwork for embroidery.

Stitch count

The number of stitches in a design. A higher stitch count usually means more production time.

Coverage

The percentage of the patch surface covered in stitches: commonly 50%, 75% or 100%.

Fill stitch

Rows of stitches used to cover large areas.

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Satin stitch

Long, smooth, closely packed stitches used for lettering and outlines.

Vector file

Artwork made of shapes rather than pixels (AI, EPS, SVG, PDF), which scales without blurring and is ideal for digitising.

Raster file

Artwork made of pixels (JPG, PNG); fine for quoting, but must be high resolution for detail.

PMS / Pantone

The Pantone Matching System, a numbered colour reference used to specify exact colours.

Colour count

The number of distinct thread or material colours in a design.

Ordering terms

### Mockup or proof A digital picture of your finished patch, showing size, colours, border and backing, which you approve before production.

MOQ (minimum order quantity)

The smallest number of pieces per design. At Irish Customized Patches it is 5 per design. See minimum order quantities explained.

Design (for pricing)

One unique combination of artwork, size, colours and backing. A change to any of them makes a new design.

Turnaround

The time from written approval to delivery; typically 7 to 12 business days within Ireland.

Rush order

An order produced faster than standard turnaround, subject to capacity.

Setup

The one-off work for a new design: digitising, colour matching and checking. It is shared across the whole run, which is why unit price falls as quantity rises.

What this guide is based on

These definitions are written by Irish Customized Patches to match the terms used on our quotes, mockups and product pages. If a term on your quote is not listed here, ask and we will explain it. Request a free mockup.

Frequently asked questions

What does merrowed border mean?

A merrowed border is a thick, rounded edge stitched around a patch with an overlock-style machine. It gives the classic badge look and suits simple shapes like circles, squares and shields.

What does coverage mean on a patch quote?

Coverage is the percentage of the patch surface covered in stitches. At 100% the whole patch is embroidered; at 50% or 75% the twill background shows around the design, which lowers the stitch count and cost.

What is digitising in embroidery?

Digitising is converting your artwork into a stitch file that tells the embroidery machine where to place each stitch, in which direction and in what order. Good digitising is what makes small details and lettering stitch cleanly.

What does MOQ mean?

MOQ stands for minimum order quantity, the smallest number of pieces you can order per design. At Irish Customized Patches it is 5 per design.

What is a PMS colour?

PMS stands for Pantone Matching System, a numbered set of standard colours. Giving a PMS number is the most reliable way to tell a patch maker exactly which colour you need.

What is the difference between heat-cut and laser-cut?

Both cut the patch to shape and seal the edge. Heat-cut uses a heated tool, while laser-cut uses a laser for very precise, intricate outlines. Both suit shapes a merrowed border cannot follow.

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